Gucci’s new designer sents out a skin-baring lineup of minimalist designs for his first fashion show

Sabato De Sarno, Gucci’s newly appointed designer, made a highly anticipated debut with a captivating fashion show that featured a collection of minimalist designs, marking a significant moment for the brand as owner Kering seeks to reinvigorate sales.

Models graced a runway set in Gucci’s Milan headquarters, formerly an aircraft factory, showcasing an array of skin-baring ensembles. The collection included short shorts paired with suit jackets, strapless mini-dresses, trim sweatshirts, and tank tops with daringly plunging necklines.

Fashion critic Kenneth Richard, editor-in-chief of industry publication The Impression, praised De Sarno’s ability to deliver “clean luxe sportswear that isn’t cheeky sexy,” aligning with contemporary preferences.

Federico Giglio, CEO and business manager of the Italian luxury fashion retailer Giglio.com, lauded the collection for presenting luxury in a new, accessible light, devoid of excess, and in tune with current trends.

The fashion show served as the visual foundation for an extensive rebranding of Gucci, a critical move aimed at generating excitement and boosting sales, even though these new designs won’t hit stores until early next year.

According to Thomas Chauvet, an analyst with Citi, De Sarno’s debut marked a significant departure from the brand’s previous aesthetics, likely to attract slightly older demographics and command higher price points.

De Sarno himself expressed his vision for Gucci as “the opportunity to fall in love with fashion, ancora,” using the Italian word for “again.” This sentiment was echoed in massive advertisements around the world, featuring the word “ancora” alongside the Gucci logo.

Unforeseen rain led to a last-minute venue change from the swanky Brera district to Gucci’s Milan headquarters. Debut collections often evoke mixed reactions, and positive reviews don’t always guarantee commercial success. Nevertheless, the show is expected to influence investors’ perceptions of De Sarno’s ability to reshape Gucci’s aesthetics.

Kering CEO and Chairman Francois-Henri Pinault acknowledged that the true impact might take a few shows to manifest fully. Gucci, once a major success story, had fallen behind competitors like Louis Vuitton and Dior. Since parting ways with former creative director Alessandro Michele, who played a pivotal role in Gucci’s earlier success, the brand has been transitioning towards elevated and timeless looks.

Following the show, Gucci’s long-time CEO, Marco Bizzarri, is set to depart, making way for managing director Jean-Francois Palus in a transitional role. Kering shares closed 1.5% higher following the show, reflecting positive investor sentiment. However, they are trading at a lower forward PE ratio compared to some of their luxury peers.