Tasting the biryani at Kozhikode’s Paragon restaurant is a prominent item on most foodies’ wishlists. Ask biryani fanatics and they will tell you that every time they visit Kozhikode, having biryani at Paragon is a must-do experience.
Recently, the 84-year-old restaurant, renowned for its biryani, secured the 11th position on the ‘150 Most Legendary Restaurants in the World’ list, released by Taste Atlas, a popular food guide based in Croatia.
The list, published on Friday, features seven Indian restaurants, including Lucknow’s Tunday Kababi at 12th position, Haryana’s Amrik Sukhdev Dhaba at 23rd, and Bengaluru’s Mavalli Tiffin Rooms at 39th.
Taste Atlas also highlights 150 dishes from these restaurants as “must-try” items in one’s lifetime, and Paragon’s biryani is among those recommended. In a conversation with us, Sumesh Govind, the owner of Paragon, shared insights into what makes their biryani truly exceptional.
Sumesh believes that creating a delicious Kozhikodan biryani is not just about the recipe, but about the passion infused into it. He explains that Paragon’s biryani carries the signature flavors of Malabar above all. “The Malabar region is a melting pot of different cultures, including Arab, Chinese, English, and more. These cultural influences are evident in our food as well. This unique aspect sets our biryani apart and gives it a global appeal,” he says.
Paragon has expanded its reach beyond Kozhikode, with branches in various cities worldwide. According to Sumesh, they receive invitations from major cities such as New York and London to open new branches. However, he emphasizes the importance of maintaining a balance and not becoming overly ambitious. “When you have a great product, offers from places like London and New York come to you. But expanding beyond your capacity without passion won’t lead to success,” Sumesh explains.
He cites the example of renowned restaurants worldwide that remain limited to one location. People undertake “food pilgrimages” or engage in “food tourism” to visit such establishments, even if they have to book their limited seats well in advance. Sumesh believes that serving exceptional food cannot be approached purely from a business perspective. Instead, it should follow a natural and organic growth process.
In conclusion, Sumesh Govind underscores the essence of passion and organic growth in culinary endeavors, signifying that Paragon’s commitment to serving great food is the key to their success.
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